By David Wharton | Los Angeles Times
The wave rolls toward Jeremy Flores, gaining speed as it draws near, looking big and translucent and smooth as glass in the morning sun.
“All clean and perfect,” he says.
With just a couple of strokes, Flores pops to his feet and drives his surfboard into a bottom turn. Next comes a snap off the lip, his arms wheeling as he sets up the payoff.
The wave curls into a glossy barrel and he ducks inside, disappearing from view.